Chevy Truckz

which truck?

admin — Sun, 28 Jun 2009 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Keep your truck and put a big brake kit on it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey all, > I’m in the market for a new truck (well, new to me, anyway) and i’m trying > to decide what year. I’m lookin for a reg cab Z71, i’ve had great service > out of my 90 model, so i’m debating on either an 88-95, with the TBI 350, > the 96-98 models with the vortec, or the 99-2000 year models. I plan on > keeping the truck very long term, any suggestions on which to look at? btw, > the only reason i’m getting another truck is mine has the standard duty > brakes and i need something with more braking power as the truck is used > moderately and used to tow a boat and/or tractor regularly. > thanks all, > TB

Response:

Hey all, I’m in the market for a new truck (well, new to me, anyway) and i’m trying to decide what year. I’m lookin for a reg cab Z71, i’ve had great service out of my 90 model, so i’m debating on either an 88-95, with the TBI 350, the 96-98 models with the vortec, or the 99-2000 year models. I plan on keeping the truck very long term, any suggestions on which to look at? btw, the only reason i’m getting another truck is mine has the standard duty brakes and i need something with more braking power as the truck is used moderately and used to tow a boat and/or tractor regularly. thanks all, TB

Response:

> Is your life really that empty that you need to ask a news-group dumb > questions like this??? Drive them for goodness sakes!! It’s not like > pickup trucks are a "NEW" thing on the automotive landscape. USE COMMON > SENSE!! > Oh, and to answer the question…. If you can afford it, go for the Deisel.

Stephen, was there really a need for your rude tone in this post? how about showing some charity, mercy, love, personal improvement, freedom, and peace. what about being fair, and seeing both sides. how about being sincere and keeping your promises. |Bill and Dawn ‘94 Ford Bronco | ‘85 Honda Magna V30 | ‘72 Olds Cutlass Supreme | |Sure it’s an overgrown stationwagon. What’s your point? | |Email address changed due to growing Auto-SPAM.

Response:

: thanks to those who helped before!!\ Just my opinion, but my idea of a truck is a Dodge 4×4 with a Cummins diesel and Allison automatic. But then again, I heard that Ford is coming out with Cat engines in the near future, so I might have to reconsider. — http://www.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca/~bobstory Automotive Paint FAQ and related subjects.

Response:

>I know of 4 people who have had trouble with their 460 engines in >f-250/350 trucks (1990 and up). I hear that they changed the 460 engine >quite a bit from the old 460 (those were great motors). What kinda >problems? Like bearings spinning, overheating, and burnt valves. Good >luck! >– >Andy Quaas

The first year the SS454 Chevy truck was available, Popular Mechanics did a comparison test between it and the Ford F250 with the 460 engine. Not only did the Ford have a better 0-60 time, it also beat the Chevy in the quarter mile. Not bad for a truck with no hotrod decals! The 460 is a good engine, lots-o-torque. The PowerStroke engine though is THE one to go with if pulling trailers is a frequent chore.

Response:

altavoz Diesels do not get good milage when you are not pulling a load . Those Cum’ D’s in Dodge PU’s don’t jump to 25 mpg when unloaded . D’s shine while pulling a 15000 LB trailer . The 355 ci ? Cum’ D’ in the Dodge PU will prob get 8 mpg better than a gas engine pulling a really big load ! And thats very commendable . But if you are not pulling a hvy load , D’s are like hemroids . Who needs them . zapper personally i would go diesel but i love diesels. the mileage will be at least 50% better than the gasser it will out pull the gasser. but if you live in cold climate conditions the need a little more t.l.c. when it gets cold. running different fuel plugging it in and so on. but don’t forget sticker price the diesel is about a $3000.00 option that sure is allot of fillups. if you want a gasser buy the new vortech 454 in the new chevy it out does any of the other factory motors in everything but mileage. —

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This isn’t alt.assholes. This is a great time for you to learn self control. > IF YOU DON’T CARE FOR A PARTICULAR ARTICAL, DON’T READ IT! > Is your life really that empty that you need to ask a news-group dumb > questions like this??? Drive them for goodness sakes!! It’s not like > pickup trucks are a "NEW" thing on the automotive landscape. USE COMMON > SENSE!! > Oh, and to answer the question…. If you can afford it, go for the Deisel. > > > thanks to those who helped before!!\ > > > ok my next questions is: > > > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 > and > > > why? > > > Any help would be appreciated. > — > Chad > Stephen,

Your question is not dumb. I had a 89 f-250HD 4×4 with a 460 and 5 speed manual trans. It was a good truck. I never had any problems with it and it had plenty of power. I now own a F-250HD crew cab with the Powerstroke and I like it very much. The powerstroke gets about 19 to 21 mpg and my 460 got about 10 to 13 mpg. The powerstroke seems to have more power But its a differnt kind of power. I would recomend the powerstroke. But if I were you I would test drive both types. In addition I would get the manual trans. I have seen and herd bad things of the automatics unless they have changed very recently. GPB

Response:

This isn’t alt.assholes. This is a great time for you to learn self control. IF YOU DON’T CARE FOR A PARTICULAR ARTICAL, DON’T READ IT! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is your life really that empty that you need to ask a news-group dumb > questions like this??? Drive them for goodness sakes!! It’s not like > pickup trucks are a "NEW" thing on the automotive landscape. USE COMMON > SENSE!! > Oh, and to answer the question…. If you can afford it, go for the Deisel. > > thanks to those who helped before!!\ > > ok my next questions is: > > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 > and > > why? > > Any help would be appreciated.

– Chad SPAM SUX! If you wish to reply, remove "*SPAMSUX*". Pursuant to US Code Title 47, Ch.5, Sub-ch.II, Sect.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem meet the definition of a telephone fax machine. Pursuant to Sect.227(b)(1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment, punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss or $500, whichever is greater, for each violation. Any unsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a fee in the amount of $500US per occurance. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms. !! O I would rather be… O/ _O _O #= ___ __ _ _ _ ( : : )( | / _` | _| _| | ‘ / _` | || |___/ New River – 1995, 1996, 1997

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is your life really that empty that you need to ask a news-group dumb > questions like this??? Drive them for goodness sakes!! It’s not like > pickup trucks are a "NEW" thing on the automotive landscape. USE COMMON > SENSE!! > Oh, and to answer the question…. If you can afford it, go for the Deisel. > > thanks to those who helped before!!\ > > ok my next questions is: > > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 > and > > why? > > Any help would be appreciated.

Isn’t this what newsgroups are for? To ask questions? Your life must be pretty empty to rag on someone else for asking a question–is it possible to just be nice and answer it without the crap attached?

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> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

Is your life really that empty that you need to ask a news-group dumb questions like this??? Drive them for goodness sakes!! It’s not like pickup trucks are a "NEW" thing on the automotive landscape. USE COMMON SENSE!! Oh, and to answer the question…. If you can afford it, go for the Deisel. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

If i were to buy a Ford truck, i think that I would have to get one of those powerstrokes. A close friend of mine has a 1990 f-350 4×4 with a 460. He bought it used from a ford dealer. It had around 60,000 miles on it and he noticed metal in the oil when he changed it. So he took it apart and found a broken piston. In goes a Ford remanufactured 460. It lasts 10,000 miles before it starts knocking. It lost a rod bearing. In goes another Ford remanufactured 460 (barely under warranty!). It goes 5,000 and it starts knocking again. This time he had a professional engine-builder look at it and he found that the main bearings had all worn to the copper. He thinks it was caused by a faulty oil-pump, or scuzz in the oil-pump. So he rebuilt the engine and has had no problem since (10000MI). Maybe he just got a motor that hadn’t been taken care of in the first place and got a couple of lemons from Ford? But i know that it roasts those 38.5" superswampers over! The locals around here seem to get a deisel more than 460 in f-350s. I dunno why exactly, but a farmer does not need 450 ft-lbs ot torque to pull hay wagons! Good luck on your purchase. — Andy

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

how are you going to use this truck?? more information is really required. answer the following questions and you will come up with the correct motor choice for your needs. 1: do you plan on using the truck for extended periods of time below zero degrees and will you have electricity available for these times? 2: how long do you plan to keep the truck? 3: how many miles will you put on the truck before you get something new? 4: do you plan on towing anything really heavy for extended periods of time? 5: do you drive the truck to work and if so how many miles is it one way? 6: can you afford the extra $3000 for the diesel? i drive about 4 miles a day to work in winter, truck must start at 25 below zero (deg f), 6000 miles a year and haul a 10′ pickup camper in the summer. i was told that the ford diesel starts well in the winter but i know my 460 starts at 30 bellow and i dont really want to mess around with fuel addatives and so on to keep it running in the winter. also i didnt think the 4 mile city trips to work in winter would help the life of the diesel. for these reasons i bought a 460 and am very happy with it. with my camper it gets 11mpg at 70 mph on the hwy and gets about 14 empty. a friend has the same truck as mine with a diesel and he gets 19mpg empty when i am getting 14. he puts on 20,000 miles a year and we take my truck snowmobiling (because it starts at 30 below) so the correct choice for him was the diesel. he plans on keeping his truck for atleast 10 years so the life of the diesel works for him. good luck! i love my f350! — to reply by email please use the following

Response:

Tanar’ri, I think a lot of these people are just gabby! I know several people who have had 460’s for a great deal of time with no problems. I personally know (some one who’d be honest with me) a Ford Mechanic that I asked about their reliability and what not. He highly recommended them. I know all this from research when I decided to purchase my 1997 F250HD with a 460 in it. I bought it last year, and it’s a great motor. I love the pasing power that you just don’t see in the diesel. If you look at Fords Tow Rating brochure, you’ll note that they rate an identically setup truck with a 460 to tow MORE than the same truck with the Power Stroke. Still, if I were regularly towing more than 8000lbs and had an extra $3000 I would opt for the diesel. They are by far more durable under those conditions and they do get better fuel mileage. — Chad SPAM SUX! If you wish to reply, remove "*SPAMSUX*". !! O I would rather be… O/ _O _O #= ___ __ _ _ _ ( : : )( | / _` | _| _| | ‘ / _` | || |___/ New River – 1995, 1996, 1997 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated. > Caladin

Response:

Listen Leaf, I never claimed my word was straight from God himself. I’m just giving MY experiences and OPINIONS! If you have a problem with that then just ignore what I post. I sure don’t ignore yours because you have a different opinion. — Andy

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

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> The > only downside is that you give up some horsepower (this can be cured > with an aftermarket turbo if you wish). Incidently, I’d make the same > recommendation with a 3500 series GM or a Dodge (especially with the > Dodge – that Cummins diesel is one of the GREAT engines of this > world).

The Ford Powerstroke diesel already has a turbo. You give up very little horsepower to the 460. The diesel is rated at 205 HP and 450 lb-ft of torque. I have a diesel and think it is much better than the 460. Mark

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

If you intend to work it hard over a lot of miles, the Diesel is the only way to go. Both engines have their drawbacks, but, the Diesel overall cost of operation will be better under heavy loads and extended operation.

Response:

For consistant long hauls go with the diesel – if purpose is shorter trips the 460 is much cleaner to operate. -DH – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated. > Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Not being a huge Ford fan, but that’s all I drive at work, I’m going to have to recommend the Ford Power Stroke diesel. The trottle response is pretty good compared to other diesels, the power is definitely there to do what you want, and they really aren’t that bad on fuel mileage. Diesels will last longer provided you keep up with the preventative maintenance. We’ve never encountered an engine related failure in any of our 11 ambulances. Hope this helps. Geez, here I am a Chevy fan and I’m recommending a Ford. Shoot me quick…… — Roger Barnes Sorry for the inconvienence…

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> personally i would go diesel but i love diesels. the mileage will be > at > least 50% better than the gasser it will out pull the gasser. but if > you > live in cold climate conditions the need a little more t.l.c. when it > gets > cold.

Coming from Norway I have this advice about diesel:if cold ( belov 25centigrades (33 F)) you migth vanna add some gas to the diesel up to 10% or better make a tube from the cooling system to go around the diesel filter to heat it up this avoids the "diesel annimals" ( a bacteria living in diesel to block the diesel filter. Leif

Response:

personally i would go diesel but i love diesels. the mileage will be at least 50% better than the gasser it will out pull the gasser. but if you live in cold climate conditions the need a little more t.l.c. when it gets cold. running different fuel plugging it in and so on. but don’t forget sticker price the diesel is about a $3000.00 option that sure is allot of fillups. if you want a gasser buy the new vortech 454 in the new chevy it out does any of the other factory motors in everything but mileage. — zapper

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I know of 4 people who have had trouble with their 460 engines in f-250/350 trucks (1990 and up). I hear that they changed the 460 engine quite a bit from the old 460 (those were great motors). What kinda problems? Like bearings spinning, overheating, and burnt valves. Good luck! — Andy Quaas

Response:

> I know of 4 people who have had trouble with their 460 engines in > f-250/350 trucks (1990 and up). I hear that they changed the 460 > engine > quite a bit from the old 460 (those were great motors). What kinda > problems? Like bearings spinning, overheating, and burnt valves. > Good > luck!

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Caladin, For a truck of that size and weight, unless you happen to own Chevron or one of the other major oil companies, I’d go diesel. This is especially true if you are going to actually use the full weight capacity of that beast. The diesel will last longer, have lower maintenance costs (except for oil changes) than the gas motor and fuel costs will be lower. The only downside is that you give up some horsepower (this can be cured with an aftermarket turbo if you wish). Incidently, I’d make the same recommendation with a 3500 series GM or a Dodge (especially with the Dodge – that Cummins diesel is one of the GREAT engines of this world). Regards, Bill Bowen Daly City, CA

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

> No Auto by Internet.com.

What the hell are you talking about son?

Response:

> thanks to those who helped before!!\ > ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

I’ve got a 92′ F250 HD with a 460 with 75k miles and no problems. I bought it new and have towed a 20′ enclosed snowmobile trailer with it every year.

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated. >Caladin

Response:

> ok my next questions is: > Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and > why? > Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

Is this as well founded as your posting about stopping on snow?? Leif

Response:

thanks to those who helped before!!\ ok my next questions is: Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and why? Any help would be appreciated. Caladin

Response:

>thanks to those who helped before!!\ >ok my next questions is: >Im gonna purchase an f-350 4×4. which engine should I get diesel or 460 and >why? >Any help would be appreciated.

Response:

What's this S-10 truck worth?

admin — Sat, 26 Feb 2005 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

1997 Chevy S-10 extended cab, 2WD, 4.3 Vortec, automatic trans, 98,500 miles, manual windows and locks, A/C, missing tailgate (don’t ask). Needs minor things like floor mats, a lever for reclining seat, rear view mirror loose, headlight has condensation. Exterior in good condition, runs and drives well. I’m considering buying this. The dealer wants US$3995 but I’m not paying that much. So, what’s it worth? NADA, Kelley, and Edmunds prices are worthless. TIA

Response:

<<1997 Chevy S-10 extended cab, 2WD, 4.3 Vortec, automatic trans, 98,500 miles, manual windows and locks, A/C, missing tailgate (don’t ask). Needs minor things like floor mats, a lever for reclining seat, rear view mirror loose, headlight has condensation. Exterior in good condition, runs and drives well.>> <> <> The truck is worth whatever the dealer can get for it. If the asking price is too high, the truck will stay on the lot for a while. However, dealers often put customers with bad credit into overpriced vehicles. As they say in the car business, "there’s an ass for every seat."

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > <<1997 Chevy S-10 extended cab, 2WD, 4.3 Vortec, automatic trans, 98,500 > miles, manual windows and locks, A/C, missing tailgate (don’t ask). Needs > minor things like floor mats, a lever for reclining seat, rear view mirror > loose, headlight has condensation. Exterior in good condition, runs and > drives well.>> > < that much.>> > < TIA>> > The truck is worth whatever the dealer can get for it. If the asking price > is too high, the truck will stay on the lot for a while. > However, dealers often put customers with bad credit into overpriced > vehicles. > As they say in the car business, "there’s an ass for every seat."

The same truck could likley be had for $2500 on the street. — Rob Munach, PE Excel Engineering PO Box 1264 Carrboro, NC 27510

Response:

Thanks to everyone who posted. The truck seems to be in fairly good condition, but apparently these things don’t hold their value as well as I thought. I’m looking for one as an adddition to my car (paying cash). I did find another that’s 3 years newer, less miles, more options for less money, and private seller. I’ll be checking that out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> <<1997 Chevy S-10 extended cab, 2WD, 4.3 Vortec, automatic trans, 98,500 > miles, manual windows and locks, A/C, missing tailgate (don’t ask). Needs > minor things like floor mats, a lever for reclining seat, rear view mirror > loose, headlight has condensation. Exterior in good condition, runs and > drives well.>> > < that much.>> > < TIA>> > The truck is worth whatever the dealer can get for it. If the asking price > is too high, the truck will stay on the lot for a while. > However, dealers often put customers with bad credit into overpriced > vehicles. > As they say in the car business, "there’s an ass for every seat." > The same truck could likley be had for $2500 on the street. > — > Rob Munach, PE > Excel Engineering > PO Box 1264 > Carrboro, NC 27510

Response:

Lo-jackAm

admin — Tue, 21 Sep 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

please check these links… http://money.cnn.com/2004/02/27/pf/autos/nicb_most_stolen/ http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/Insurance/Insureyourcar/P35264.asp Older camrys and accords etc are the ones getting stolen. I’ve had a few cars with Lojack installed. I wouldn’t do it again though because its expensive, insurance doesn’t really give you a big break, and the immobilizer system is good enough.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m thinking of putting the Lo-jack recovery system in my 2004 Civic LX. Has > anyone here installed one,or decided not to after looking into it?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Top 5 most stolen cars in the US 2002: >1. Toyota Camry >2. Honda Accord >3. Honda Civic >4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup >5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350) >And for the first quareter 2004: >1. Toyota Camry >2. Honda Accord >3. Honda Civic >4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup >5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350)

So? What does that have to do with a 2004 Civic? Trying to be coy by omitting the years, eh? Btw, 2004 Civic has the Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent System. I know these work because Camaros were tops in stolen lists in the 80s… til GM started installing immobilizers starting with ‘90. Do not write below this line. Reserved for me.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Top 5 most stolen cars in the US 2002: >1. Toyota Camry >2. Honda Accord >3. Honda Civic >4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup >5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350) >And for the first quareter 2004: >1. Toyota Camry >2. Honda Accord >3. Honda Civic >4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup >5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350) > So? What does that have to do with a 2004 Civic? Trying to be coy by > omitting > the years, eh?

? Ok, so add in the years. He added a heck of a lot more to the discussion than your usual drivel.

Response:

> I’m thinking of putting the Lo-jack recovery system in my 2004 Civic LX. Has > anyone here installed one,or decided not to after looking into it?

whats your theft deductible? how much is the lojack installation? how much per month? do you think it would be worth it? are you sure you really want the car back after some jackhole has torn it up?

Response:

Why? No one wants Civics. Do not write below this line. Reserved for me.

Response:

> Why? No one wants Civics.

Top 5 most stolen cars in the US 2002: 1. Toyota Camry 2. Honda Accord 3. Honda Civic 4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup 5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350) And for the first quareter 2004: 1. Toyota Camry 2. Honda Accord 3. Honda Civic 4. Chevrolet Full Size C/K Pickup 5. Ford Full Size Pickup (150/250/350)

Response:

I’m thinking of putting the Lo-jack recovery system in my 2004 Civic LX. Has anyone here installed one,or decided not to after looking into it?

Response:

Spark Plugs: Recommendations?

admin — Sun, 08 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Well, years ago, (before I knew better) the wifes minivan began running rough on the way home from a trip. Wasn’t making any noise really, just running on 5 cylinders. I pulled the (Champion) plugs to see if one was fouled or something (motor had 100k on it, but ran good). and was thrilled to see the whole center electrode had COME OUT of the plug. I had HOPED I would be able to toss in a new set, and go, but a compression check revealed ZERO in that cylinder. Later, when I tore the motor down, I found a piece of the spark plug fused to the exhaust valve. Unfortunately my Momma never warned me not to use Champions in anything except a lawnmower

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I had a double plat go out and it blew the tail-lights right outta my > car…… believe half of what you see and none of what you hear….. > Just to clarify…. yes, a spark plug could fail and pooch a motor…. but > only of you’re stupid enough to keep driving it with all that racket going > on…. > Don’t forget to hand that guy his sign… > I installed B**ch platinum plugs on a 4 cyl Toyota , few months later > it > began stalling , pulled the plugs , the centre electrode on one had > become > loose and had become gapless , this was the type with the thin needle type > electrode. I was telling a guy in work about what happened , he said he > had > installed a set of B**h in a Chevy truck , he used the type with the > larger > electrode , the electrode became loose and wiped out his engine. > Coincidence ? > Phil

Response:

On the topic of plugs, does anyone have any experience in how the 4.0 SOHC reacts to having its plugs indexed?

Response:

ROFL! Indexing plugs in a stock, SUV…. ROFL some more….. *wiping the tear from my eye* Yeah, make sure you use Splitfires though

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> On the topic of plugs, does anyone have any experience in how the 4.0 > SOHC reacts to having its plugs indexed?

Response:

>On the topic of plugs, does anyone have any experience in how the 4.0 >SOHC reacts to having its plugs indexed?

Why? Does the SOHC engine’s intake actually require it? Remember, a spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture – that’s what it does. Once it’s ignited, the plug has done its job. It can’t do it any better. It either does it or not. Indexing plugs which already do their job is pointless. There are certain circumstances where fancy plugs are needed; a stock Explorer, running correctly, isn’t one of those circumstances by any means. Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Well, not a tough as a job as I thought it was going to be… although my >first plug I put in, I felt something like a "click" as in using a torque >wrench when it reached the proper torque. I didn’t think anything of it at >the time, but later found out I had cracked the porcelain/ceramic (what is >it?) on the outside of the plug, ’cause it was misfiring as soon as I got on >the highway to go somewhere. >Ford put those plugs in WAY too tight… had a heck of a time getting them >out. In fact, I had to hand over removing the front one on the passenger >side to my friend (who is a mechanic) as when I tried to remove it, the >entire thing shattered to pieces. Luckily, it was just the outside and >didn’t require to do anything "surgical" as he called it. >All in all, everything is working just great. I can’t wait to fill up again >to see IF it makes any difference in my gas mileage. I am thinking about >having my fuel injectors serviced at the dealership (anyone know at what >mileage that is usually called for anyway?) >Thanks all, >Tim

You broke one coming out, and one going in? Were you using a spark plug socket? Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

Response:

Well, not a tough as a job as I thought it was going to be… although my first plug I put in, I felt something like a "click" as in using a torque wrench when it reached the proper torque. I didn’t think anything of it at the time, but later found out I had cracked the porcelain/ceramic (what is it?) on the outside of the plug, ’cause it was misfiring as soon as I got on the highway to go somewhere. Ford put those plugs in WAY too tight… had a heck of a time getting them out. In fact, I had to hand over removing the front one on the passenger side to my friend (who is a mechanic) as when I tried to remove it, the entire thing shattered to pieces. Luckily, it was just the outside and didn’t require to do anything "surgical" as he called it. All in all, everything is working just great. I can’t wait to fill up again to see IF it makes any difference in my gas mileage. I am thinking about having my fuel injectors serviced at the dealership (anyone know at what mileage that is usually called for anyway?) Thanks all, Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Warning: I’m a novice… > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 > miles > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city > driving. > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. > I’m > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I should > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me > how > to do it myself. > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be looking > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would give > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > splitfire type plugs. > Thanks for the info! > Tim

Response:

In a waste spark system (like those fitted to the 4.0….. one coil serving two spark plugs) one spark plug is positive firing (the spark jumping from centre electrode to ground electrode) and it’s running mate is negative firing (the spark jumps from the ground electrode to the centre electrode). Any benefits of running platinum plugs are realized only on the positive firing plugs. At the factory, Ford installs three plugs with platinum on the centre electrode and three with the platinum on the ground electrode to save money. As far as performance is concerned, the same power is created in the cylinder whether the plug is platinum or not. HTH.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [snip] > I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because > I find that they have decent quality control……. if you > want to go with the Bosch, so be it – decent plug, > stay away from the +whatevers and stay away from > single platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders > well – ask nice and I will explain why). > With my hat in hand, I’ll ask why you consider single platinums > unworthy and only serving 3 cylinders. > The Ranger

Response:

Emailed NGK – The G power are single Platinum. Look’s like I’ll be taking them back… — Allan Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think I read somehere that the plugs fire one way (ie: pos to neg) on 3 > cyl’s and the other way (ie: neg to pos) on the other cyl’s. So you want > platinum on both electrodes. Is that it? > I just bought some NGK G-Power Platinum plugs but it doesn’t say whether > they are single or double anywhere, although I suspect single from the > packaging. The website doesn’t help either. Are these OK? > — > Allan Williams > Don’t monkey with the heat range…. that’ll get you into $trouble$ > quicker > than you can pucker your back door. Rely on the application catalogue and > you should be fine. > I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because I find that they have > decent quality control……. if you want to go with the Bosch, so be it – > decent plug, stay away from the +whatevers and stay away from single > platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders well – ask nice and I will > explain why). If it’s price that bothers, I dont think a buck or so times > six is going to change your lifestyle. > Read my lips….. THERE IS NO MAGIC SPARK PLUG!! > > Is there a FAQ regarding spark plugs on the net anywhere? one that > anyone > > would recommend me read? > > Just off of various sites I’ve googled… I also need to be looking at a > > heat range…? How do I know what would be appropriate? > > I think I may look into Bosch… have had a friend recommend that brand > > before. > > Thanks, > > Tim > > > Akin to what Chief is telling you, there are no "trick" spark plugs. I > > > currently install Motorcraft plugs (working at a Ford dealer – go > figure). > > I > > > have used NGK, Bosch (not the + goofy side gap things), and Autolite > with > > > great success. Single platinum plugs are a waste of time on wasted > spark > > > systems….. this would be the system on your car. If you can’t obtain > a > > set > > > of double platinum plugs, then copper electrodes will still meet your > > needs > > > quite well. I will question the need for spark plugs at 47K miles as > this > > is > > > a kind of "in between" mileage – I’ve seen them start misfiring around > > this > > > time, but that would usually lead to some kind of code. > > > If you live in an area close to forest fire country or you have clay > dust > > > that becomes almost talcum powder-like, I’d think of cleaning the MAF > and > > > replacing the fuel filter as preliminary steps before changin plugs > > (though > > > the plug change wont hurt). > > > > Warning: I’m a novice… > > > > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 > Ford > > > > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving > 13 > > > miles > > > > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city > > > driving. > > > > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit > family. > > > I’m > > > > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I > > should > > > > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > > > > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any > problem > > > > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" > me > > > how > > > > to do it myself. > > > > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be > > looking > > > > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that > would > > give > > > > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > > > > splitfire type plugs. > > > > Thanks for the info! > > > > Tim

Response:

>Well, years ago, (before I knew better) the wifes minivan began running >rough on the way home from a trip. Wasn’t making any noise really, just >running on 5 cylinders. I pulled the (Champion) plugs to see if one was >fouled or something (motor had 100k on it, but ran good). and was thrilled >to see the whole center electrode had COME OUT of the plug. I had HOPED I >would be able to toss in a new set, and go, but a compression check revealed >ZERO in that cylinder. >Later, when I tore the motor down, I found a piece of the spark plug fused >to the exhaust valve. >Unfortunately my Momma never warned me not to use Champions in anything >except a lawnmower

When I was workng in a MC shop in Ca., a Champion rep came to our shop to see if he could get us in on a promo they were running; I had no idea who he was as he walked up. He came into the shop and asked for the manager, so I went to him, and he stuck out his hand. I stuck mine out until he said he was from Champion, and I withdrew my hand; we had been having *very* bad results with Champion plugs in Japanese bikes, and were using ND "Hot U" plugs with very good results. When he saw me withdraw my hand, he got serious, and asked if there was a problem, so I took him inside and showed him ou drawer of Chanpion plugs that we’d taken out of bikes after the plugs had failed; broken insulators, badly eroded center electrodes, worn ground electrodes. Then I showed him the ND plugs out of a bike on the floor with over 5K miles on them; a little eroded, but still serviceable. He said he’d been seeing the same in other shops, and wanted to know what we thought they should do. I told him Champion should probably hire some ND engineers. He wasn’t happy. Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

Response:

> Well, years ago, (before I knew better) the wifes minivan began running > rough on the way home from a trip. Wasn’t making any noise really, just > running on 5 cylinders. I pulled the (Champion) plugs to see if one was > fouled or something (motor had 100k on it, but ran good). and was thrilled > to see the whole center electrode had COME OUT of the plug. I had HOPED I > would be able to toss in a new set, and go, but a compression check revealed > ZERO in that cylinder. > Later, when I tore the motor down, I found a piece of the spark plug fused > to the exhaust valve.

Was it just the center electrode, or did the bottom insulator come out too? H

Response:

Why use them in something where you have to pull a rope to start it? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well, years ago, (before I knew better) the wifes minivan began running >rough on the way home from a trip. Wasn’t making any noise really, just >running on 5 cylinders. I pulled the (Champion) plugs to see if one was >fouled or something (motor had 100k on it, but ran good). and was thrilled >to see the whole center electrode had COME OUT of the plug. I had HOPED I >would be able to toss in a new set, and go, but a compression check revealed >ZERO in that cylinder. >Later, when I tore the motor down, I found a piece of the spark plug fused >to the exhaust valve. >Unfortunately my Momma never warned me not to use Champions in anything >except a lawnmower > I had a double plat go out and it blew the tail-lights right outta my > car…… believe half of what you see and none of what you hear….. > Just to clarify…. yes, a spark plug could fail and pooch a motor…. but > only of you’re stupid enough to keep driving it with all that racket going > on…. > Don’t forget to hand that guy his sign… > > I installed B**ch platinum plugs on a 4 cyl Toyota , few months >later > it > > began stalling , pulled the plugs , the centre electrode on one had > become > > loose and had become gapless , this was the type with the thin needle >type > > electrode. I was telling a guy in work about what happened , he said he > had > > installed a set of B**h in a Chevy truck , he used the type with the > larger > > electrode , the electrode became loose and wiped out his engine. > > Coincidence ? > > Phil

Response:

I had a double plat go out and it blew the tail-lights right outta my car…… believe half of what you see and none of what you hear….. Just to clarify…. yes, a spark plug could fail and pooch a motor…. but only of you’re stupid enough to keep driving it with all that racket going on…. Don’t forget to hand that guy his sign…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I installed B**ch platinum plugs on a 4 cyl Toyota , few months later it > began stalling , pulled the plugs , the centre electrode on one had become > loose and had become gapless , this was the type with the thin needle type > electrode. I was telling a guy in work about what happened , he said he had > installed a set of B**h in a Chevy truck , he used the type with the larger > electrode , the electrode became loose and wiped out his engine. > Coincidence ? > Phil

Response:

I was telling a guy in work about what happened , he said he had > installed a set of B**h in a Chevy truck , he used the type with the larger > electrode , the electrode became loose and wiped out his engine. > Coincidence ?

I know a few guys like that. No matter what your story is, they’ll have one to top it. Don’t believe everything you hear. H

Response:

I installed B**ch platinum plugs on a 4 cyl Toyota , few months later it began stalling , pulled the plugs , the centre electrode on one had become loose and had become gapless , this was the type with the thin needle type electrode. I was telling a guy in work about what happened , he said he had installed a set of B**h in a Chevy truck , he used the type with the larger electrode , the electrode became loose and wiped out his engine. Coincidence ? Phil

Response:

Don’t waste your money…. many think that, since there are four ground electrodes, there will be four sparks at a time. It would be a real stroke of luck to have even two gaps ionize at the exact same time, let alone all four. My personal feelings are that the extra electrodes can serve to shroud the spark though I will state that this is purely anecdotal and born of just thinking about the plug, not on any real world experience. While we are on the subject, I’d like to mention that single, positive platinum electrode plugs work well in COP (coil on plug applications). Additionally, many of Fords recent offerings feature multisparking (much like MSD) at idle….. A spark plug has two relatively simple jobs. First, igniting the air/fuel mixture and, second, removing heat from the combustion chamber (the "heat range" of the plug indicating how much heat is transferred through the porcelain to the head). Good combustion chamber design will expose as much of the mixture as possible to the spark…. it will also have a marked effect on flame propagation. The strength of the spark is affected more on items outside the combustion chamber than any exotic thing that plug manufacturers can dream up. HTH

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because I find that they have > decent quality control……. if you want to go with the Bosch, so be it – > decent plug, stay away from the +whatevers > Question for you … what’s bad about their Platinum +4 plugs? By "stay > away" from them, do you mean that their design is flawed, or shouldn’t be > used in my vehicle (but other’s it’d be ok?), or meaning don’t waste my > money on such a "fancy plug"? > NOT that I was considering them, I was just browsing their site and saw > those, and you mentioned it, so I was just curious as to why they shouldn’t > be used. > and stay away from single > platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders well – ask nice and I will > explain why). If it’s price that bothers, I dont think a buck or so times > six is going to change your lifestyle. > And price isn’t an issue for me. I’m sure if I went to some tune-up mechanic > they’d charge me a lot of money and probably only use single platinums. > Thanks a lot! > Tim

Response:

> I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because I find that they have > decent quality control……. if you want to go with the Bosch, so be it – > decent plug, stay away from the +whatevers

Question for you … what’s bad about their Platinum +4 plugs? By "stay away" from them, do you mean that their design is flawed, or shouldn’t be used in my vehicle (but other’s it’d be ok?), or meaning don’t waste my money on such a "fancy plug"? NOT that I was considering them, I was just browsing their site and saw those, and you mentioned it, so I was just curious as to why they shouldn’t be used. > and stay away from single > platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders well – ask nice and I will > explain why). If it’s price that bothers, I dont think a buck or so times > six is going to change your lifestyle.

And price isn’t an issue for me. I’m sure if I went to some tune-up mechanic they’d charge me a lot of money and probably only use single platinums. Thanks a lot! Tim

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Warning: I’m a novice… >I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford >Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 miles >on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city driving. >Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. I’m >currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I should >be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. >I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem >paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me how >to do it myself. >But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be looking >for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would give >me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or >splitfire type plugs. >Thanks for the info! >Tim

Like Jim & The Chief said, there’s no need for any special or fancy polugs for your Explorer. You can go to your local parts store,and ask for the stock platinum Motorcraft plugs, and get excellent service from them; the only difference between them and the *stock* plugs is that the stock ones are only platinum on one side – they keep track of whgich platinum sided plug goes where; this saves a few pennies on each motor made. For the consumer, there’s no need to be so, um, cheap. Get the double platinum plugs,and you’ll be sure to have the platinum on the right electrode. As for the special plugs, there are a few things to keep in mind; not the least is the function of the plugs in the first place. And that is, of course, to light the air-fuel mixture. Once it’s lit, it stays lit; a fancy plug won’t change that. Unless you’re experiencing misfires that are actually caused by the plugs not doing their primary job (that is, not caused by bad wires, bad coils, bad mixture, bad rings, bad many other things), then the fancy, special plugs won’t light off the air-fuel mixture any better than the stock ones will. HTH! Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

Response:

I think I read somehere that the plugs fire one way (ie: pos to neg) on 3 cyl’s and the other way (ie: neg to pos) on the other cyl’s. So you want platinum on both electrodes. Is that it? I just bought some NGK G-Power Platinum plugs but it doesn’t say whether they are single or double anywhere, although I suspect single from the packaging. The website doesn’t help either. Are these OK? — Allan Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don’t monkey with the heat range…. that’ll get you into $trouble$ quicker > than you can pucker your back door. Rely on the application catalogue and > you should be fine. > I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because I find that they have > decent quality control……. if you want to go with the Bosch, so be it – > decent plug, stay away from the +whatevers and stay away from single > platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders well – ask nice and I will > explain why). If it’s price that bothers, I dont think a buck or so times > six is going to change your lifestyle. > Read my lips….. THERE IS NO MAGIC SPARK PLUG!! > Is there a FAQ regarding spark plugs on the net anywhere? one that anyone > would recommend me read? > Just off of various sites I’ve googled… I also need to be looking at a > heat range…? How do I know what would be appropriate? > I think I may look into Bosch… have had a friend recommend that brand > before. > Thanks, > Tim > > Akin to what Chief is telling you, there are no "trick" spark plugs. I > > currently install Motorcraft plugs (working at a Ford dealer – go > figure). > I > > have used NGK, Bosch (not the + goofy side gap things), and Autolite > with > > great success. Single platinum plugs are a waste of time on wasted spark > > systems….. this would be the system on your car. If you can’t obtain a > set > > of double platinum plugs, then copper electrodes will still meet your > needs > > quite well. I will question the need for spark plugs at 47K miles as > this > is > > a kind of "in between" mileage – I’ve seen them start misfiring around > this > > time, but that would usually lead to some kind of code. > > If you live in an area close to forest fire country or you have clay > dust > > that becomes almost talcum powder-like, I’d think of cleaning the MAF > and > > replacing the fuel filter as preliminary steps before changin plugs > (though > > the plug change wont hurt). > > > Warning: I’m a novice… > > > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford > > > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 > > miles > > > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city > > driving. > > > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit > family. > > I’m > > > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I > should > > > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > > > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any > problem > > > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" > me > > how > > > to do it myself. > > > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be > looking > > > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would > give > > > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > > > splitfire type plugs. > > > Thanks for the info! > > > Tim

Response:

> Don’t monkey with the heat range…. that’ll get you into $trouble$ > quicker than you can pucker your back door. Rely on the application > catalogue and you should be fine. > I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because I find that they > have decent quality control……. if you want to go with the Bosch, > so be it – decent plug, stay away from the +whatevers and stay away > from single platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders well – ask > nice and I will explain why). If it’s price that bothers, I dont > think a buck or so times six is going to change your lifestyle. > Read my lips….. THERE IS NO MAGIC SPARK PLUG!!

I’ll bite.. So what makes single platinum spark plugs so bad? I have a 96 explorer, and must admit to using bosch singles in it. Can’t say that my fuel economy has gone down. I track it on my palm. Im interested as it as I need to change my plugs soon, and if there is something better that I should consider then I’d like to know. Thanks,

Response:

[snip] > I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because > I find that they have decent quality control……. if you > want to go with the Bosch, so be it – decent plug, > stay away from the +whatevers and stay away from > single platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders > well – ask nice and I will explain why).

With my hat in hand, I’ll ask why you consider single platinums unworthy and only serving 3 cylinders. The Ranger

Response:

I’d recommend getting a nice set of Splifires from your local parts house. Then when you get home, open all the boxes, and remove the plugs and lay them in a row on your bench. Then get a pail, or garbage can, and hold it near the edge of the bench as you slowly sweep them into the trash. Now you are all set to go back to the parts house and buy som Motorcraft plugs!. Being that you are new at this, and are learning the main reason you need to buy the Splitfires and throw them out is so that it hurts you to even THINK about buying a Splitfire for anything, even your lawnmower in the future.:) Seriously… Motorcraft Platinum is what you’ll want.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Warning: I’m a novice… > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 miles > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city driving. > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. I’m > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I should > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me how > to do it myself. > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be looking > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would give > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > splitfire type plugs. > Thanks for the info! > Tim

Response:

Akin to what Chief is telling you, there are no "trick" spark plugs. I currently install Motorcraft plugs (working at a Ford dealer – go figure). I have used NGK, Bosch (not the + goofy side gap things), and Autolite with great success. Single platinum plugs are a waste of time on wasted spark systems….. this would be the system on your car. If you can’t obtain a set of double platinum plugs, then copper electrodes will still meet your needs quite well. I will question the need for spark plugs at 47K miles as this is a kind of "in between" mileage – I’ve seen them start misfiring around this time, but that would usually lead to some kind of code. If you live in an area close to forest fire country or you have clay dust that becomes almost talcum powder-like, I’d think of cleaning the MAF and replacing the fuel filter as preliminary steps before changin plugs (though the plug change wont hurt).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Warning: I’m a novice… > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 miles > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city driving. > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. I’m > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I should > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me how > to do it myself. > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be looking > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would give > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > splitfire type plugs. > Thanks for the info! > Tim

Response:

Don’t monkey with the heat range…. that’ll get you into $trouble$ quicker than you can pucker your back door. Rely on the application catalogue and you should be fine. I mentioned those manufacturers that I did because I find that they have decent quality control……. if you want to go with the Bosch, so be it – decent plug, stay away from the +whatevers and stay away from single platinums (they will only serve 3 cylinders well – ask nice and I will explain why). If it’s price that bothers, I dont think a buck or so times six is going to change your lifestyle. Read my lips….. THERE IS NO MAGIC SPARK PLUG!!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is there a FAQ regarding spark plugs on the net anywhere? one that anyone > would recommend me read? > Just off of various sites I’ve googled… I also need to be looking at a > heat range…? How do I know what would be appropriate? > I think I may look into Bosch… have had a friend recommend that brand > before. > Thanks, > Tim > Akin to what Chief is telling you, there are no "trick" spark plugs. I > currently install Motorcraft plugs (working at a Ford dealer – go figure). > I > have used NGK, Bosch (not the + goofy side gap things), and Autolite with > great success. Single platinum plugs are a waste of time on wasted spark > systems….. this would be the system on your car. If you can’t obtain a > set > of double platinum plugs, then copper electrodes will still meet your > needs > quite well. I will question the need for spark plugs at 47K miles as this > is > a kind of "in between" mileage – I’ve seen them start misfiring around > this > time, but that would usually lead to some kind of code. > If you live in an area close to forest fire country or you have clay dust > that becomes almost talcum powder-like, I’d think of cleaning the MAF and > replacing the fuel filter as preliminary steps before changin plugs > (though > the plug change wont hurt). > > Warning: I’m a novice… > > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford > > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 > miles > > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city > driving. > > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. > I’m > > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I > should > > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem > > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me > how > > to do it myself. > > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be > looking > > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would > give > > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > > splitfire type plugs. > > Thanks for the info! > > Tim

Response:

Is there a FAQ regarding spark plugs on the net anywhere? one that anyone would recommend me read? Just off of various sites I’ve googled… I also need to be looking at a heat range…? How do I know what would be appropriate? I think I may look into Bosch… have had a friend recommend that brand before. Thanks, Tim

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Akin to what Chief is telling you, there are no "trick" spark plugs. I > currently install Motorcraft plugs (working at a Ford dealer – go figure). I > have used NGK, Bosch (not the + goofy side gap things), and Autolite with > great success. Single platinum plugs are a waste of time on wasted spark > systems….. this would be the system on your car. If you can’t obtain a set > of double platinum plugs, then copper electrodes will still meet your needs > quite well. I will question the need for spark plugs at 47K miles as this is > a kind of "in between" mileage – I’ve seen them start misfiring around this > time, but that would usually lead to some kind of code. > If you live in an area close to forest fire country or you have clay dust > that becomes almost talcum powder-like, I’d think of cleaning the MAF and > replacing the fuel filter as preliminary steps before changin plugs (though > the plug change wont hurt). > Warning: I’m a novice… > I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford > Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 > miles > on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city > driving. > Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. > I’m > currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I should > be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. > I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem > paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me > how > to do it myself. > But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be looking > for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would give > me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or > splitfire type plugs. > Thanks for the info! > Tim

Response:

Warning: I’m a novice… I’ve been noticing a gradually decreasing fuel economy in my 2002 Ford Explorer XLS 4WD (4.0L V6). My usual daily routine includes driving 13 miles on highway to work, and back again, and a little bit of inner-city driving. Every so often, I’ll take a trip that’s under 350 miles to visit family. I’m currently at approx. 47,000 miles. I’ve been told by friends that I should be looking into having my spark plugs replaced. I’ve never done this myself, and quite frankly wouldn’t have any problem paying someone to do it. Although, I have someone willing to "teach" me how to do it myself. But anyway, actually going to buy sparks plugs… what should I be looking for? Anyone have any recommendations? I’d like to get some that would give me the best performance. One person mentioned either a rapidfire or splitfire type plugs. Thanks for the info! Tim

Response:

2000 Silverado 2500 4L80-E shift problems

admin — Sat, 07 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

. . ======= ======= I am having shifting issues with my recently purchased used 2000 2500 Silverado 4L80-E tranny. 94000 miles It up/down shifts hard from gear to gear, it is intermittent, it is usually when warm, no check engine light ever. It is sometimes a very severe harsh shift, and sometimes it shifts fine. I just did this stuff yesterday to the tranny below…. Changed filter with a new GM tranny filter. Changed 6 quarts of fluid, fluid and pan were pretty clean, I suspect previous owner did powerflush recently. Changed the Pressure Control Solenoid in the bottom of the valve body, cleaned out the passages in the PCS area, tightened up the valve body-which was tight. Reassembled, and tested. I only drove it a few miles since all that yesterday but still felt some shifting issues. Any help here, can this be programmed or need software updates to the PCM????? HELP !!!!!

Cruise Conrtol Dropping Out

admin — Thu, 05 Aug 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

> Sounds like the cruise lever. Try tilting the wheel with the cruise on. Or > tapping the lever. Another problem I have seen is too much resistance in the > brake switch. When the brake switch is bad, they will usually kick in the > first time you use it that day. Then when it heats up, it cuts out and > sometimes won’t come back. But since you said it sometimes will go out after > using the turn signal, That points to the lever.

That’s where I was going to start, but I feared it. Now I have to diagnose an intermittant electrical problem, my favorite. Wait a minute. You say the brake switch heats up and it kicks out. Using the signal light puts more load on the circuit does it not? Would using the turn signal put enough load on it to kick it out? Oh, and it has kicked out when I used the tilt once or twice. I will check a few things tomorrow and report back. Steve

Response:

Since you said it kicked out while tilting the wheel, I would say the lever is bad. I would not think the brake switch is bad.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like the cruise lever. Try tilting the wheel with the cruise on. Or > tapping the lever. Another problem I have seen is too much resistance in > the > brake switch. When the brake switch is bad, they will usually kick in the > first time you use it that day. Then when it heats up, it cuts out and > sometimes won’t come back. But since you said it sometimes will go out > after > using the turn signal, That points to the lever. > That’s where I was going to start, but I feared it. Now I have to diagnose > an intermittant electrical problem, my favorite. > Wait a minute. You say the brake switch heats up and it kicks out. Using the > signal light puts more load on the circuit does it not? Would using the turn > signal put enough load on it to kick it out? > Oh, and it has kicked out when I used the tilt once or twice. I will check a > few things tomorrow and report back. > Steve

Response:

I don’t believe this partically model of cruise control is vacuum operated. But, I will take a look. Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just my 2 cents, but check your vacuum lines. The cruise control on my > Chevy S-10 had a similar problem and one of the vacuum lines was cracked. > Rick

Response:

Just my 2 cents, but check your vacuum lines. The cruise control on my Chevy S-10 had a similar problem and one of the vacuum lines was cracked. Rick

Response:

Sounds like the cruise lever. Try tilting the wheel with the cruise on. Or tapping the lever. Another problem I have seen is too much resistance in the brake switch. When the brake switch is bad, they will usually kick in the first time you use it that day. Then when it heats up, it cuts out and sometimes won’t come back. But since you said it sometimes will go out after using the turn signal, That points to the lever.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Car: 1995 Monte Carlo Z34, 3.4L DOHC > Problem: Cruise Control Drops Out > My cruise control keeps dropping out. Cannot reproduce. Sometimes it happens > when I use the turn signal, but not everytime. Most times it just drops out > without me doing anything. Sometimes, if I shut the car off and then back on > again it will work for a little while longer. > Before I go through the agony of diagnosing the problem by following the > steps in the factory manual, are there any common problems I should know > about? > Steve

Response:

Car: 1995 Monte Carlo Z34, 3.4L DOHC Problem: Cruise Control Drops Out My cruise control keeps dropping out. Cannot reproduce. Sometimes it happens when I use the turn signal, but not everytime. Most times it just drops out without me doing anything. Sometimes, if I shut the car off and then back on again it will work for a little while longer. Before I go through the agony of diagnosing the problem by following the steps in the factory manual, are there any common problems I should know about? Steve

Response:

Syracuse Nationals – Looking for video or pictures – Pls read..

admin — Wed, 28 Jul 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Hello, I am looking for any video or pictures of friday night on 7th north of my ride.. I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer 2 tone light and dark grey 2 door.. Not to brag but i did a killer burnout and would like to get your time.. Jeremy

Response:

> Hello, > I am looking for any video or pictures of friday night on 7th > north of > my ride.. I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer 2 tone light and dark grey > 2 door.. Not to brag but i did a killer burnout and would like to get > you for your time.. Jeremy

First pic didn’t work (sorry) trying again

Response:

>> Hello, > I am looking for any video or pictures of friday night on 7th > north of > my ride.. I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer 2 tone light and dark grey > 2 door.. Not to brag but i did a killer burnout and would like to get > you for your time.. Jeremy >First pic didn’t work (sorry) trying again

Keep posting a binary files to a newsgroup without ‘binaries’ in its name, and people might get mad enough to report you to your ISP. So beware, dialup users can be grumpy. ;) later, tom Our Latest site: http://www.MedicalJobList.com

Response:

2001 2500 carrier bearing replacement

admin — Sun, 25 Jul 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Hello, how does the driveshaft separate to change the carrier bearing on a 2001 Chevy 2500 4×4? I haven’t looked under the boot yet near the center yokes – not sure if it is a slip joint or I will have to dis-assemble the u-joints? thx, D.

Response:

(top post) It slides apart…with a little effort. well….. maybe sometimes a lot of effort. Fact, not Fiction ~:~ MarshMonster ~wonders if he wants to know how to put it back togeather~ 2001 2500 carrier bearing replacement Hello, how does the driveshaft separate to change the carrier bearing on a 2001 Chevy 2500 4×4? thx, D.

Response:

> Hello, how does the driveshaft separate to change the carrier bearing > on a 2001 Chevy 2500 4×4? > I haven’t looked under the boot yet near the center yokes – not sure > if it is a slip joint or I will have to dis-assemble the u-joints?

Well, I’m having a hard time deciphering your technical jargon. Why don’t we just start with, "which driveshaft are you talking about"? Front, rear…etc. I suspect that you are talking about the front driveshaft. In that case, the driveshaft just slides off the splines of the front output shaft on the transfer case. Ian

Response:

. . Hello, how does the driveshaft separate to change the CARRIER BEARING on a 2001 Chevy 2500 4×4?

88 Chevy Silverado idling problem

admin — Fri, 16 Jul 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

I have a 88 Chevy Silverado pickup 2 wheel drive with a 350 ci engine TBI and automatic overdrive transmission. I have been having problems with it’s inability to keep idling. I have recently changed the spark plugs (gap checked), new spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and new ignition coil. I also have had it into a couple of garages to t’shoot the problem. From the latest t’shooting, the technician indicated after replacing numerous sensors and electronic components that the problems must be related to the main computer or a wiring problem. The technician also indicated that there does not seem to be a pulse signal to the injectors during idling and it only is receiving the 5V operating voltage. If I keep the engine revved up, it will not stall. I have since tried replacing the main computer, but this does not remedy the problem. I have also changed out the transmission as there was a torque converter lock up/stall speed concern. I have not yet changed the wiring harness. Much appreciated if anyone can provide some insight.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 88 Chevy Silverado pickup 2 wheel drive with a 350 ci engine TBI > and automatic overdrive transmission. I have been having problems with it’s > inability to keep idling. > I have recently changed the spark plugs (gap checked), new spark plug wires, > distributor cap and rotor, and new ignition coil. I also have had it into a > couple of garages to t’shoot the problem. From the latest t’shooting, the > technician indicated after replacing numerous sensors and electronic > components that the problems must be related to the main computer or a > wiring problem. The technician also indicated that there does not seem to be > a pulse signal to the injectors during idling and it only is receiving the > 5V operating voltage. > If I keep the engine revved up, it will not stall. > I have since tried replacing the main computer, but this does not remedy the > problem. > I have also changed out the transmission as there was a torque converter > lock up/stall speed concern. > I have not yet changed the wiring harness. > Much appreciated if anyone can provide some insight.

Most likely you need to replace the pick up magnets/coil in the distributor. They are pointed, requires removal and disassembly to replace. Recently we have done about 10 vehicles with this same problem. Just incase your tech doesn’t know, a weak signal from a pick up coil/magnates will cause weak injector pulse (pulse voltage). When the magnets/coils go completely out, you lose all pulse. Charles

Response:

Good pick Charles: I was going to say that, notice I’ve been recommending that a lot. then winter before last, when I was still in the shop. We did more pick ups in that year, than I’ve done in my whole career as a technician. I think all the recycled copper wire is coming back to haunt us finally? Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 88 Chevy Silverado pickup 2 wheel drive with a 350 ci engine TBI > and automatic overdrive transmission. I have been having problems with > it’s > inability to keep idling. > I have recently changed the spark plugs (gap checked), new spark plug > wires, > distributor cap and rotor, and new ignition coil. I also have had it into > a > couple of garages to t’shoot the problem. From the latest t’shooting, the > technician indicated after replacing numerous sensors and electronic > components that the problems must be related to the main computer or a > wiring problem. The technician also indicated that there does not seem to > be > a pulse signal to the injectors during idling and it only is receiving the > 5V operating voltage. > If I keep the engine revved up, it will not stall. > I have since tried replacing the main computer, but this does not remedy > the > problem. > I have also changed out the transmission as there was a torque converter > lock up/stall speed concern. > I have not yet changed the wiring harness. > Much appreciated if anyone can provide some insight. > Most likely you need to replace the pick up magnets/coil in the > distributor. They are pointed, requires removal and disassembly to > replace. Recently we have done about 10 vehicles with this same problem. > Just incase your tech doesn’t know, a weak signal from a pick up > coil/magnates will cause weak injector pulse (pulse voltage). When the > magnets/coils go completely out, you lose all pulse. > Charles

Response:

> Good pick Charles: > I was going to say that, notice I’ve been recommending that a lot. > then winter before last, when I was still in the shop. We did more pick ups > in that year, than I’ve done in my whole career as a technician. I think all > the recycled copper wire is coming back to haunt us finally? > Refinish King

I don’t know what it is, as of late we have had a rash of 87 and up GM HEI’s with that problem. It could be the vendor GM used for those, I’m not sure. Most of the one’s we have replaced are on vehicles with over 200K. A few on vehicles with over 100K. Mostly C/K Pick Up’s, and G-Vans. A few car distributors as well. Charles

Response:

Refinish King wrote in alt.autos.gm I > think all the recycled copper wire is coming back to haunt us finally?

What does recycled copper have to do with any problem? It gets melted down and purified just like copper ore does. — Dick #1349 "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~Benjamin Franklin Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com

Response:

Really? You’re a metallurgist? Have you ever seen the size of the wire of the electromagnetic coil in question? Just wondering? As I don’t know anything about melting and purifying metals? Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Refinish King wrote in alt.autos.gm > I > think all the recycled copper wire is coming back to haunt us finally? > What does recycled copper have to do with any problem? It gets melted > down and purified just like copper ore does. > — > Dick #1349 > "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety > deserve neither liberty nor safety." > ~Benjamin Franklin > Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com

Response:

Refinish King wrote in alt.autos.gm > Really? > You’re a metallurgist? > Have you ever seen the size of the wire of the electromagnetic coil in > question? > Just wondering?

The one in question? No. But I have seen plenty of coil wires, and they are all very small. Now, back to my question, why do you think that there is a problem with recycled copper? — Dick #1349 "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." ~Benjamin Franklin Home Page: dickcr.iwarp.com

Response:

drum brake locks up tight

admin — Thu, 10 Jun 2004 00:00:00 +0000

Question:

Pretty sure Jegs has the parts. Do a google for "Race car parts" as I know one of my circletrack buds showed me the parts for about $13 a pair in his parts book.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I can weld good enough that they don’t look like total boogers. I am going > to look into that, to go disk brakes all around for less than $200 sounds > good to me. Any favorite sites that sell the brackets, I will do a google > search, but I always like to entertain companies that have a good > reputation. > Haynes has been wrong before. > Personally– if you know anyone that can weld– I’d say it’s time to drop > $20 on a pair of weld-on caliper brackets and go with a low-buck rear disc > conversion. They’re all over the web, typically for less than $150. > > I am going to have to look at this tonight. Are you positive that the > long > > shoe faces the front of the vehicle? I believe the Hayes manual showed > the > > longer show towards the rear. I will double check that tonight. > > > >:| > > > >:|> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet. > > > >:| > > > >:|Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are > > over-adjusting, > > > >:|I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If > it’s > > loose > > > >:|or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in > > check. > > > >:|Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really > > worn, it > > > >:|could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and > > > >:|overtightening. > > > >:| > > > >:|Doc > > > >:| > > > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > > > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > > > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > > > -Bret

Response:

> Short shoe to the front, long to the rear.

Brian is right, I can’t believe all you other experts don’t know that? It’s always been, short shoe to the front whenever there are different lengths of shoe. Geez! This is automotive brakes 101. Ian

Response:

– Computer Tips & Tweaks Builds/Upgrades/Repairs www.acon-pchelp.com

> Short shoe to the front, long to the rear. > Brian is right, I can’t believe all you other > experts don’t know that? It’s always been, > short shoe to the front whenever there > are different lengths of shoe. Geez! > This is automotive brakes 101. > Ian

You are right Ian, but I have to plead guilty too. I always pulled both drums and did one side at a time using the other side for reference. I just got left and right mixed up with front and rear. Was rather embarassing. JR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

>:| >:|> Short shoe to the front, long to the rear. >:| >:|Brian is right, I can’t believe all you other >:|experts don’t know that? It’s always been, >:|short shoe to the front whenever there >:|are different lengths of shoe. Geez! >:|This is automotive brakes 101. >:| >:|Ian >:|

shit, I deal w/ the drums on my truck about once every other year… and last summer was the last time I fooled with them. I do distinctly remember however that the short shoe on my truck had the longer friction on it. -Bret

Response:

I can weld good enough that they don’t look like total boogers. I am going to look into that, to go disk brakes all around for less than $200 sounds good to me. Any favorite sites that sell the brackets, I will do a google search, but I always like to entertain companies that have a good reputation. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Haynes has been wrong before. > Personally– if you know anyone that can weld– I’d say it’s time to drop > $20 on a pair of weld-on caliper brackets and go with a low-buck rear disc > conversion. They’re all over the web, typically for less than $150. > I am going to have to look at this tonight. Are you positive that the > long > shoe faces the front of the vehicle? I believe the Hayes manual showed > the > longer show towards the rear. I will double check that tonight. > > >:| > > >:|> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet. > > >:| > > >:|Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are > over-adjusting, > > >:|I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If > it’s > loose > > >:|or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in > check. > > >:|Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really > worn, it > > >:|could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and > > >:|overtightening. > > >:| > > >:|Doc > > >:| > > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > > -Bret

Response:

Welcome back! my personal nut sniffer! Refinish King LOL

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> (today we tune in to here…..) > ====== > ====== > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > -Bret > ====== > ====== > questions the answer with a question…… > I am going to have to look at this tonight. > Are you positive that the long shoe faces the front of the vehicle? > I believe the Hayes manual showed the longer show towards the rear. I > will double check that tonight. > ====== > ====== > Depends……. > Once ….I saw a 57 Chevy that had front ends > on both ends….complete with doors, windshields, the works….. > (AmVets parade car) > now which way you reckon them long shoes > Long shoe to the front….of course!!!!! > 00 > L > O > marsh > ~thinks maybe you worked on yer friends > vehical and got things mixed up~ > ====== > ======

Response:

Hank, the shit eating dog of course! I told you he was looking for you a long time ago! LOFL Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> . > . > Bret > Doc > Hank > ty……. > good to see you guys too > marsh > who’s Hank?~ > ===== > =====

Response:

if you believe Haynes: I have several bridges across our wonderful United States you might be interested in? Refinish King

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am going to have to look at this tonight. Are you positive that the long > shoe faces the front of the vehicle? I believe the Hayes manual showed the > longer show towards the rear. I will double check that tonight. > >:| > >:|> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet. > >:| > >:|Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are > over-adjusting, > >:|I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If it’s > loose > >:|or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in > check. > >:|Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really > worn, it > >:|could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and > >:|overtightening. > >:| > >:|Doc > >:| > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > -Bret

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >:|(today we tune in to here…..) >:|====== >:|====== >:| >:|here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe >:|with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the >:|rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. >:| >:|-Bret >:|====== >:|====== >:| >:|questions the answer with a question…… >:| >:| >:|I am going to have to look at this tonight. >:| >:|Are you positive that the long shoe faces the front of the vehicle? >:| >:|I believe the Hayes manual showed the longer show towards the rear. I >:|will double check that tonight. >:| >:|====== >:|====== >:| >:|Depends……. >:| >:|Once ….I saw a 57 Chevy that had front ends >:|on both ends….complete with doors, windshields, the works….. >:|(AmVets parade car) >:| >:|now which way you reckon them long shoes >:| >:| >:| >:|Long shoe to the front….of course!!!!! >:| >:| >:|00 >:|L >:|O >:| >:|marsh >:|~thinks maybe you worked on yer friends >:|vehical and got things mixed up~ >:|====== >:|======

Heya Marshy… missed ya -Bret – tips his Capt’n & diet to da monster!

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Where the hell ya been buddy! Good to see ya! Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Welcome back bud. which vat was it this time? — hank 2004 Chev Z71

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->:| >:|> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet. >:| >:|Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are over-adjusting, >:|I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If it’s loose >:|or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in check. >:|Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really worn, it >:|could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and >:|overtightening. >:| >:|Doc >:| > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > -Bret

Short shoe to the front, long to the rear. Brian

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My money is on the Harps…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Welcome back bud. which vat was it this time? > — > hank > 2004 Chev Z71 > (today we tune in to here…..) > ====== > ====== > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > -Bret > ====== > ====== > questions the answer with a question…… > I am going to have to look at this tonight. > Are you positive that the long shoe faces the front of the vehicle? > I believe the Hayes manual showed the longer show towards the rear. I > will double check that tonight. > ====== > ====== > Depends……. > Once ….I saw a 57 Chevy that had front ends > on both ends….complete with doors, windshields, the works….. > (AmVets parade car) > now which way you reckon them long shoes > Long shoe to the front….of course!!!!! > 00 > L > O > marsh > ~thinks maybe you worked on yer friends > vehical and got things mixed up~ > ====== > ======

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. . Bret Doc Hank ty……. good to see you guys too marsh who’s Hank?~ ===== =====

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–

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> . > . > Bret > Doc > Hank > ty……. > good to see you guys too > marsh > who’s Hank?~ > ===== > =====

Sorry Marsh, I mostly lurk. I am relatively new to the truck scene, but damn I learn alot listening to you guys. Don’t feel confident enough yet to give advice on chevy trucks, but will give an opinion on off topic stuff. hank 2004 Chev Z71

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I would agree with that on any car: But, always get at the minimum: a Hurst inline adjustable proportioning valve. Otherwise, you’ll be seeing the ass end every time you need to make an emergency stop> Refinish King – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Haynes has been wrong before. > Personally– if you know anyone that can weld– I’d say it’s time to drop > $20 on a pair of weld-on caliper brackets and go with a low-buck rear disc > conversion. They’re all over the web, typically for less than $150. > I am going to have to look at this tonight. Are you positive that the > long > shoe faces the front of the vehicle? I believe the Hayes manual showed > the > longer show towards the rear. I will double check that tonight. > > >:| > > >:|> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet. > > >:| > > >:|Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are > over-adjusting, > > >:|I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If > it’s > loose > > >:|or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in > check. > > >:|Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really > worn, it > > >:|could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and > > >:|overtightening. > > >:| > > >:|Doc > > >:| > > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > > -Bret

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I say the Hillbilly was drinking straight Shine? Any wagers? Nice to see the good joker back, now for Trans Surgeon, and all the regulars are back! Refinish King Again, welcome back and keep that snout dry! LOL – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My money is on the Harps… > Welcome back bud. which vat was it this time? > — > hank > 2004 Chev Z71 > > (today we tune in to here…..) > > ====== > > ====== > > here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe > > with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the > > rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. > > -Bret > > ====== > > ====== > > questions the answer with a question…… > > I am going to have to look at this tonight. > > Are you positive that the long shoe faces the front of the vehicle? > > I believe the Hayes manual showed the longer show towards the rear. I > > will double check that tonight. > > ====== > > ====== > > Depends……. > > Once ….I saw a 57 Chevy that had front ends > > on both ends….complete with doors, windshields, the works….. > > (AmVets parade car) > > now which way you reckon them long shoes > > Long shoe to the front….of course!!!!! > > 00 > > L > > O > > marsh > > ~thinks maybe you worked on yer friends > > vehical and got things mixed up~ > > ====== > > ======

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Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> maybe moisture

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> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet.

Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are over-adjusting, I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If it’s loose or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in check. Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really worn, it could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and overtightening. Doc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> maybe moisture

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>:| >:|> Shoes are new, Drums are new, parts all cleaned. Nothing is wet. >:| >:|Yeah, that was a shitty guess eh! If the self-adjusters are over-adjusting, >:|I’d check the tension of the self-adjuster tab return spring. If it’s loose >:|or incorrectly positioned there is nothing to keep the adjuster in check. >:|Also, check the sprokets on the adjuster wheel. If they’re really worn, it >:|could be the adjusted is spinning freely on the adjuster tab and >:|overtightening. >:| >:|Doc >:|

here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. -Bret

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I am going to have to look at this tonight. Are you positive that the long shoe faces the front of the vehicle? I believe the Hayes manual showed the longer show towards the rear. I will double check that tonight.

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Haynes has been wrong before. Personally– if you know anyone that can weld– I’d say it’s time to drop $20 on a pair of weld-on caliper brackets and go with a low-buck rear disc conversion. They’re all over the web, typically for less than $150.

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(today we tune in to here…..) ====== ======

here’s my thought… were the shoes put on backwards?… IRC, the shoe with the long friction goes to the front, the short friction to the rear. I agree w/ checking the adjusting pawl, too. -Bret ====== ====== questions the answer with a question…… I am going to have to look at this tonight. Are you positive that the long shoe faces the front of the vehicle? I believe the Hayes manual showed the longer show towards the rear. I will double check that tonight. ====== ====== Depends……. Once ….I saw a 57 Chevy that had front ends on both ends….complete with doors, windshields, the works….. (AmVets parade car) now which way you reckon them long shoes Long shoe to the front….of course!!!!! 00 L O marsh ~thinks maybe you worked on yer friends vehical and got things mixed up~ ====== ======

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What am I missing here? Helped a friend with his 73 blazer tonight. Has the 12 bolt rear axle. 6 months ago he had the brakes done by a shop and they have worked fine. Then suddenly the drivers rear wheel locked up. It is definatly the brake that is locking the wheel because without the drums on the axle spins freely. So now it has new brake shoes, new drums, springs are 6 months old, and everything is cleaned. What seems to be happening is that the self adjuster just keeps getting tighter and tighter every time you back up until the brakes are so tight the wheel will not turn. Also I should add that the wheel locks tight when moving forward, but when spun backwards it moves ok. What would cause a drum brake to lock like that?

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maybe moisture